Archive for May 7th, 2007

SAME DAY MALIK’S PASSING

THIS IS A SHOT OF MY LAST WAVE THE SAME DAY THAT MALIK PASSED AWAY. HERE IS A WAVE DAVE WASSEL AND I SHARED. DAVE IS A PRO SURFER AND A CITY AND COUNTY LIFE GUARD ON THE NORTH SHORE. HE HAS HELPED SAVE MANY LIVES. WHAT A ADMIRABLE JOB! DAVE IS A REALLY GREAT GUY AND GREAT SURFER. HE GOT ONE OF THE BIGGEST WAVES THIS WINTER OUT AT LOG CABINS. IT WAS PROBABLY 35 FEET!

THIS WAVE WAS ONE OF THE SETS THAT MORNING AND I KNOW THAT DAVE DID NOT SEE ME BECAUSE I SAW HIS HEAD DOWN AND PADDLING HARD FOR THE WAVE. I THOUGHT THAT HE MAY HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO GET ON THE WAVE, THAT’S THE REASON I TOOK OFF. APPARENTLY DAVE GOT THE COVER OF SURFER ON THIS WAVE AND I WAS SO STOKED FOR HIM! I THOUGHT TO MY SELF THAT I’M GLAD HE GOT THE SHOT BECAUSE THAT IS HIS JOB BEING A PRO SURFER. ANYWAY DAVE CALLED ME BEFORE I GOT BACK TO THE OFFICE AND APOLOGIZED ABOUT THE WAVE AND I REALLY APPRECIATE HIS SINCERITY. I’M STOKED TO HAVE FRIENDS LIKE HIM!! ALOHA

P.S. I HOPE HE LETS ME GO ON A GOOD ONE!

Monday, May 7th, 2007

MALIK JOYEUX

THIS IS MEMORIAL OF MALIK JOYEUX HE WAS A FAMOUS TAHITIAN SURFER WHO PASSED AWAY AT PIPELINE IN 2005. WE MADE A FEW BOARDS FOR HIM AND I REMEMBER HIM AS A VERY NICE PERSON. HE WAS WELL LIKED BY EVERYONE AND WAS A GREAT SURFER. I STILL REMEMBER THAT DAY. WE WERE ONE OF THE FIRST PEOPLE IN THE WATER THAT MORNING AND THE WAVES WERE PERFECT 6-8 FEET WITH BEAUTIFUL CONDITIONS. WHEN I WAS SURFING THAT MORNING AND I WAS THINKING THAT THIS DAY WAS VERY SIMILAR TO THE DAY THAT MY FRIEND JON MOZO PASSED AWAY. IT WAS THE SAME CONDITIONS, SWELL DIRECTION AND ABOUT THE SIZE. IT WAS UNBELIEVABLE THAT ANOTHER FRIEND HAD PASSED AWAY! THE AMAZING THING IS THAT HE WAS A VERY GOOD BIG WAVE SURFER AND WAS ONE OF THE BEST OUT AT TEAHUPO’O! HE SURFED WAVES THAT WERE A LOT BIGGER AND MORE DANGEROUS!

PEOPLE WILL REMEMBER MALIK AS A GREAT PERSON AND FULL OF ALOHA! WE ALL CAN LEARN FROM HIM! ALOHA
http://www.transworldsurf.com/surf/features/article/0,,1137572,00.htm

Monday, May 7th, 2007